Did some work

• removed the cowl and windshield trim
• Vacuumed out the interior
• Removed the console, radio knobs and woodgrain for cleaning
• Pitman arm is still stuck on, I'll get a tool from the auto store later
• removed the brake booster and master cylinder
• started to remove some of the steering column
  

Engine info

Here's the info I have gathered on the engine
Block VIN
21X326471

Casting Code
485428

Block Code
6310287
YC
Code Car Year CID HP Trans RPO Carb Block Cast Main
YC F-body 71 455 325 Turbo 400 L-75 1x4 485428 2

Displacement Identification: 455

Date Code on Engine block
C 81 – March 8 1971

Head codes:

Casting # Year CID HP Valve CC
6X 1977 400 180,200 2.11/1.66 101

Head Date code – E187 (May 18 1977)

Brakes Part 3 - Proprtioning valve

Saturday morning - sleep or get out of bed and enjoy one of the last nice weekends that we are going to have in Houston. I took a look at the proportioning valve and saw that it was only be held up by the steel tubing. The bracket bolts were missing so a quick trip to the local Autozone and the valve is mounted. then I discovered why it was not attached. All of the brake lines were not fitted. so after allot of pulling and bending and a little cussing I got all the lines on the valve. I took a look at the brake pedal and discovered that it was not attached to the booster. The connector was on but it was too long and need to be screwed down so that it would align with the brake pedal pin hole. Which meant disconnecting all the lines I had attached and taking the entire master cylinder and booster off so I could back the screw off. then after test fitting the booster and the alignment with the pedal hole I finally got the settled out. So booster back on, proportioning valve back on and lines reconnected. The last thing to get done is to attached the front brake hose brackets. I had dipped them in some carb cleaner and left them there for a night. Then took out a sanding disc to knock off the rest of the rust. I'll paint them tomorrow and attach them later in the week. I'll looking into bleeding the master cylinder next weekend.

Rear Axle bumpers installed

Got a chance to mount the rear axle brackets and bumpers tonight I am a little concerned about the clearance of the RH bracket to the KYB shock. It is maybe 2mm from touching. I might need to grind down the edge a little just to be sure. But the I think I can say that the rear suspension is now complete. It good to have a new suspension kit and coils in the front and back. It will definitely sit up higher.

Brakes Part 2

So the rust is off and the calipers were cleaned. Used some Eastwood paint prep. Went down to Autozone and picked up some Red Caliper paint. I removed the disc brake hardware and o-rings and masked off the pistons and seal.

I was also careful to mask off the brake line hose bolts and bleed valves.
The instructions were easy and I applied 3 coats of paint.
After about 24 hours of drying I went ahead and test fit them on the rotor. It'll take about a week for it to cure entirely though.
I could help it but I put one of my Torque thrust rims to see how they will eventually look.
I also notice that the proportional valve was not mounted to the bracket that extended from the booster.Hopefully I can fin those in the remaining parts that David has left at his house.

Brakes Part 1

Another great feature is that this car is gonna restart life with so front disc brakes. With the 15 inch rally rims there is plenty of room. However the one's I got from David were covered with surface rust. After taking off the rims the disc rotors look just as bad.
So over the coarse of the next couple nights I sanded off the rust and cleaned the rotors as mush as I could with some 400 grit and WD-40.